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lisbon does not eat dinner the way other cities do. the restaurants fill at ten, the tascas at eleven, and by midnight the real cooking starts — the kind that never makes it onto the english menus.
in madragoa there is a room with eight tables and no sign where the caldo verde arrives without anyone ordering it, and the grilled sardines come on bread that has already soaked up the olive oil from the plate before it.
the owner, dona rosa, has run the same room for thirty-one years. she does not take reservations because, as she puts it, the neighborhood is the reservation.
Lisbon does not eat dinner the way other cities do. The restaurants fill at ten, the tascas at eleven — and by midnight the real cooking starts, the kind that never makes it onto the English menus.
In Madragoa there is a room with eight tables and no sign, where the caldo verde arrives without anyone ordering it, and the grilled sardines come on bread already soaked with olive oil from the plate before it.
The owner, Dona Rosa, has run the same room for thirty-one years.